Originally all kites were C shaped in design as a true C shape was the only shape which would not collapse when under load with direct attachments to the wing tips. In time kite designers began to alter their kite's shapes to offer riders different flying attributes such as greater depower, larger wind ranges and hang time. In order to support these new shapes bridles were used to spread the load and Supported Leading Edge kites were born. Some designers called these kites Bow kites due to a swept trailing edge design which Ocean Rodeo has never used.
We currently classify our kites as SLE kites but make the distinction that we also sell SLE C Kites, that is, a kite which offers riders many of the original C Kite feel with the added benefits of current technology.
Kite technology changes all the time, if you have any questions about the latest trends in gear please contact us directly or your local Ocean Rodeo Authorized Dealer as we work hard to stay in front of the latest developments and, in fact, are responsible for many of the innovations now standard in our sport!

The GO – Joe™ is an inflatable tube structure attached to deck of the kiteboard that uses the natural forces of buoyancy distribution and wind to roll you kite board right side up and accelerate it down wind. These features combined with high visibility and additional floatation will make the use of surfboard style leashes in kiteboarding obsolete.

Traditional surfboard style leashes used to connect kiters with their boards have proven to be dangerous in both the water and on land. The GO – Joe™ is a new “leash free” tool to assist in the retrieval of your kiteboard without fear of being impacted or impeded by a leashed board. The GO – Joe™ is perfect for beginners and intermediates learning board recovery techniques. Advanced riders will appreciate the faster board recovery in extreme conditions or while learning new tricks.

Yet another industry first from Ocean Rodeo, in 2003 we introduced the Constant Conical Curve leading edge tube for all of our C shaped kites. While other kite manufacturers build their leading edge tube in segments that make an awkward arch. Our C3 Leading Edge design ascribes a progressive constant curve that smoothes the kite’s flight and provides stability when in the air.

3D does not describe the third dimension! 3D Construction is an industry first from Ocean Rodeo, introduced in 2003. It has since been copied by a number of other manufacturers in one form or another. 3D describes how we build all of our kites with a Dacron frame. The wingtips, leading edge and trailing edge are all framed in Dacron to provide a Built Tough frame for the kite.

Yup, you guessed it. Another industry first from Ocean Rodeo. Introduced in 2003 on all of our kites the Shock Strip (SxS) is a strip of Dacron that runs the width of the kite from wing tip to wing tip. This strip runs exactly over the apex of the kite’s curve and is designed to bear the load of a hard nose down crash. When a kite is crashed hard nose down onto the water a violent shock erupts from the leading edge down the center strut. In many other brand’s kites this will lead to a catastrophic tear along the center strut. With SxS Technology on our kites this Dacron Shock Strip spreads the load of this force out to the wing tips and often saves the kite from damage. If the shock is too severe and a tear does form it is often contained between the Shock Strip and the Leading Edge. This will allow you to safely fly into shore and inexpensively have the small tear repaired.

Yes. However, there is no point. Our kites all feature Roll Over Bridle technology that offers near total de-power and any small advantage you gain in relaunching your kite are offset by the potential for a 5th line wrap up ending your session and damaging your kite. We do not recommend adding a 5th line to your Ocean Rodeo SLE kites.

On our kite chart we decided to separate the two as we feel boost describes the kite’s ability to lift you in the air while hangtime describes the kite’s ability to act as a wing and let you fly with the kite once airborne.

Bar size helps leverage the kite to turn and as such we recommend using a larger bar on the larger kites. This would include sizes 18, 16, 14 and 12m. However, the 12m size is a cross over and many riders prefer a smaller bar with it. Generally speaking the 12m Rise and Diablo can fly well with the 50cm bar while the 12m One will work best with a 60cm bar. All other sizes of kite can be flown on our 50cm bar.

All of our kites come ready to fly out of the bag. However, you can adjust the bridle attachment points to affect their flight. Generally speaking, the further forward your front attachments are the more bar pressure and the more depower you have. The further back your back attachments are the faster turning the kite is and the more prone to stalling it is. Please note! We only recommend you experiment with these settings if you are very confident in your riding abilities and expect to be able to notice the small nuances these changes will evoke in your kites! Please consult your kite's specific manual for a more in-depth explanation of the options specific to your kite model.

Yes! We have made available through all our authorized dealers a simple to apply re-fit kit. The kit consists of a 2007 center line trim strap with a leash attachment loop on the end and a 2007 EZ Stopper.

While the Rise is a fantastic kite for advanced riders it is also our easiest kite to fly right out of the bag! Super simple to re-launch, excellent de-power and immediate power make this kite simple to fly. If, as a beginner, you find the turning speeds to high simply ask your instructor or a friend who is an advanced rider to help you move the rear line attachments forward to slow the turning speed for you!

Of course you can! With the massive range of SLE kites some riders worry that un-hooking will cause the kite to stall and fly backwards, an unwanted characteristic with any powered move! Ocean Rodeo kites are engineered to perfection and are very difficult to back fly! Un-hook with confidence. Want another excuse to un-hook and send ‘er? Ocean Rodeo’s 2007 SLE Bar is designed to hold the chicken loop straight when un-hooked for easy access when it is time to hook back in!

The 2009 Rise features our Power Control Bridle System. Maintain a constant back line tension no matter what your trim setting is for maximum control of your kite in any wind condition! Jump and fly your kite with confidence like never before!

Each of our 3 different models of kite, One, Rise and Diablo have a different Projected Area. The Projected Area is loosely described as being the percentage of the kite’s canopy which is actually exposed to the wind’s forces. On a very Flat kite such as the One the Projected Area is higher. This allows the One to achieve better low wind performance by exposing more canopy material to the light wind conditions. Both the Rise and One kites benefit from added De-Power through their SLE bridle system. This added De-Power gives them the ability to handle gusting winds and higher wind conditions more readily. As a kite’s shape comes closer to a traditional C shaped kite the kite becomes more dynamic in its turning speeds.

The combination of these different characteristics leads to the description of a one, two or three kite quiver. Our One kite has a massive wind range and as such can act as a one kite quiver in all but the most extreme conditions. Our Rise sacrifices some of the low wind power in favour of faster turning speeds and as such requires two kites to round out its quiver for all but the most extreme wind conditions. Finally, the Diablo has less wind range than either of the other two kites but offers demanding riders a very dynamic kite, it makes up a three kite quiver for all but the most extreme wind conditions.

With proper storage and regular maintance you dry-suit will last many years (see the Drysuit manual for all the details). You may find after 2 or 3 seasons it’s time to replace the latex seals but, under normal use, the suit itself can go on and on!

All seals must be “snap” tight to keep out the water, however not so tight that they cut off circulation to your feet, hands or head. If your neck seal is choking you it’s too tight!
To make a seal larger simply trim the latex down with a pair of sharp scissors. (See the Drysuit manual before attempting this!) Before trimming a seal, you can also stretch it over a larger diameter circular object, such as an ice cream tub, and leave it for 24 hrs. This can make the seal slightly larger.

In the unlikely event of major rip occurring on your dry suit you will not be dragged to the bottom. Water is neutrally buoyant in water, so there is no “weight” to pull you down. Also, the outer skin layer places external pressure on the dry core bladder minimizing the amount of water that could enter through a rip.
Note: In big surf wearing a dry-suit or a wetsuit, it is always advisable to wear additional Floatation (Floatation / Impact vest).

A tear in the Drycore can be easily repaired in a few minutes. Repair patches (included with suit ) are heat activated by a hair dryer or heat gun, so no gluing is required. See the Dry-suit manual for all the details.

During a wipeout excess air may be forced out of the suit by the external water pressure. As this air leaves your neck seal a small amount of water may squirt in resulting in a damp neck. To minimize this risk crouch into a ball before going out and squeeze most of the air out of your suit. Note: don’t squeeze all the air out, as this will make the suit tight with suction and less comfortable.

Use the “condom” technique! Turn the legs of the dry-suit inside out. Simply pull your ankle seals over your feet, and locate you toes on the other side. Now “roll” the legs of the suit up. This will leave your fleece in place. See the Dry-suit manual for all the details.

Ocean Rodeo latex seals are nothing like the seals from the past. We custom blend our own seals with a hybrid of polyurethane and latex. These new school seals can be easily repaired or replaced if damaged, please see the Dry-suit manual for all the details.

The water pressure associated with wipeouts can force small amounts of water past the seals of the suits. Improved dryness can be achieved by wearing gloves, boots and a hood that lay over the latex seals to keep any water seeping in past the seal.
Additionally, during a prolonged session you are likely to sweat inside your suit and your undergarments may become damp.
We recommend layering self-wicking undergarments such as polypropylene fleece to keep you warm and your body dry.